Cowl is loosely draped bias folds of fabric. It can be
created on front and back neckline of dresses, skirts, pants and even on armholes.
It gives elegant look for the garment .There are many verities of cowls such as
low cowl, high cowl, mid depth cowl. Pleated cowl etc.
Material used for cowls should drape well. Chiffon, knitted fabric
or any woven material which is supple enough to drape is suitable.
Method of sewing mid depth cowl
Prepare the front and back of the bodice block.
We have to make a few changes in the bodice block to stitch cowl neck.
Bodice front
In Figure 1 E-P is the shoulder
line. Curve P-Q is the original neck line. Q-R is the center front. O is the
bust point. Draw a perpendicular line O-F from bust point to center front. Mark
Point A on the shoulder line E-P from where you want Cowl neckline to drape.
This is neckline starting point. Mark point B on the center front between neck
and bust level. Cowl falls from point A to point B. join A-B.
Bodice back
E’-P’ is shoulder line .Curve P’-Q’ is the original back
beck line. Q’-R’ is back center line. Mark point A’ on the shoulder line such
that E’-A’= E-A +¼”.Mark point B’ on the center back such that B’-Q’ =1½”.
Join A’-B’. This is the new neck line of the back.
Cut along the line A-B and A-’B’ and remove the shaded
portion of the draft.
Join points A and B. Draw slash line from shoulder tip E to
point F. Draw another line C-D In between the lines A-B and E-F as shown in the
figure 3.cut the line D-C and F-E till the shoulder line keeping the shoulder
line intact. Cut the line F-O till the point O not through the point O.
Take folded sheet of paper and draw a line M-N 6” away from the short edge as shown in
figure 4.
Sheet above the line M-N is for self-facing.
Place the new draft of the front prepared such that line A-B
of the draft touches the line M-N and point B falls on the fold of the paper
and secure them with pins. Center front line of the draft which is below bust
level is placed on the fold of the paper and secured with pins. Spread the cut
sections of the draft as shown in figure and secure them with pins. The edges
of the sections which project beyond the fold of the paper are not needed.
Fold
the paper back along the line M-N as shown in Figure 5. Cut along the dotted line as shown. Trim the
edges of the sections which projects beyond the fold of paper.
Unfold the sheet of the paper along the line M-N. Trim the
facing as shown. Draft for cowl front is got ( Figure 6).
Layout
Fold the fabric on true bias and place draft of front as
shown in Figure 7 and cut the pattern piece.
Back of the bodice and back neck facing is cut as usual.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGIZbl1HjGV7fD6NR6-yO_W2MjP8UeGs-Qh39tCwf7uca1g1Ywww-iaR9FfhHxrfTvk1Dl_MDsywfh3-KutwDVYKtPzoRV5ElVXz9x-S3JSd7kHVYqcZTqICebKMrVvG4T4MA3lNm_-3p4/s1600/%23+8+figure+8.jpg) |
Bodice back |
pattern pieces
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBCmkFbI_0ALj8h48NHuVgj6KMAogFRwFcQ8P0TIL82Q61Db_vj4A56z4XbPdc-5-_DRVK6lGKnqR-OtUrVLxVTIa4567VboPGaRfjEWc7yBKNmBJq0HSqK485PjSI-W0D7gX86uAgD_Co/s1600/Untitled.jpg) |
pattern pieces |
Stitching
Finish back neck with facing.
Finish the edge of the self-facing of the cowl by turning
the edge in.
Align front and back shoulder seams keeping right sides together and secure them with running stitches.
.
Fold the self-facing along the cowl line
over the back neck line. Now right side of the facing will be together wrong
side of the back. Pin the shoulder seam of the bodice to the shoulder seam
portion of the facing. Stitch three layers together.
Turn the facing over the
seam allowance. Finish armhole with facing. Finish the hem by turning in and stitching.
Top with cowl neck line is ready