Prepare the draft basic simple night dress and make the following changes.
( Figure 1)
Produce shoulder line J-H to R such that H-R = 1 ½ “. Widen the neck line as shown in the figure such that head passes through the neck. In this design there will be no neckline placket. P-Q is the new neck line.In this design front and back neck line is the same. From the point R draw new yoke line R-S so that the width of the yoke is same all over. Mark new armhole line H-F in between the back armhole line H-O-F and front arm hole line H-N-G. New armhole line cuts the yoke line R-S at the point T. In this design there will be no difference between front armhole line and back armhole line.
Cut and remove unwanted shaded portion .( Figure 2)
New draft will be like this.( Figure 3)
Separate yoke from the skirt by cutting along yoke line R- T-S.( Figure 4).Divide the skirt portion by drawing parallel lines U-V, W-X, Y-Z as shown .
Cut the draft along these lines. (Figure 5) .
Place the draft on another sheet of brown paper and spread the portions as shown in the figure 6 and Fix them with mask tapes. Join points T and D by a smooth curve.
Cut along the lines T-F-I-M-B-E-D-This is the draft of the skirt.( Figure 7 )
Cut the pattern pieces using these drafts as shown in the layout.Do not forget to add ½” seem for skirt top and yoke bottom as shown by purple lines.
Pattern pieces ( Figure 9 )
Follow the method as explained here.